Letter I.

Bay of Bengal.

Letter II.

Hartly House, Calcutta.

The splendor of this house,
as it is modestly styled, is of
itself, my Arabella, sufficient to
turn the soundest European head;
but I am well aware, was I to
plunge at once into a description
of it, I should have my veracity,
if not my intellects, impeached:
lowering myself, therefore, to your
narrow conceptions, I will begin
with the circumstances of my first
arrival, and so contrive to temper,
though I cannot, like Mr. Apollo,
lay aside my rays, that your optics
shall be enabled to contemplate,
however brilliant, the dazzling objectsjects B7r 13
I gradually open on your
view.

The island of Sawger, at the
mouth of Ganges, is the first
land you encounter; but as it is
alone inhabited by tygers, alligators,
&c. &c. you will believe
me when I tell you I had not the
smallest penchant for visiting it.
Piolets, however, come down to
this distance (some hundred miles)
from Calcutta, for the safe convoy
of ships; the tide of this eastern
river being subject to no less sudden
than impetuous changes, insomuch
that the ablest seamen are
often drifted by it.

We proceded on our voyage up
the river to one of the stations for
Indiamen, called Culpee, 150 miles from B7v 14
from Calcutta, where my father received
the most affectionate greetings
from his old acquaintance;
and we were told, that three bugeros
were on their way to welcome
and accommodate us.

This found having no semblance
whatever of the easstern dignity, I
begged my father to inform me
what a bugero was:—He smiled,
and bid me wait their arrival, nor
seek to anticipate my own discoveries
in a single instance.

We passed the second station,
called Cudgeree; when lo, the
bugeros appeared in view; and
judge, if you can, of the pleasure it
gave me, after having been so long
confined to one vet of company, to
perceive I was on the point of tastinging B8r 15
the boundless joys of eastern
magnificence.

You have seen, as you suppose,
some very handsome barges on the
river Thames; but how poor a
figure that handsomest would make,
in comparison, with the bugeros, or
barges in Calcutta, I will endeavour
to convince you.

As they approached, my ears
drank in the most delightful sounds;
a band of music, as is the custom,
occupied each of them, playing
the softest airs; and from the tout
ensemble, brought Dryden’s Cydnus
and Cleopatra to my recollection.

The company in the first that
came along-side of us were seated upon B8v 16
upon deck, with kittesan boys, in
the act of suspending their kittesans,
Open note a001-rotaUmbrellas. which were finely ornamented,
over their heads; which boys
were dressed in white muslin jackets,
tied round the waist with green
sashes, gartered at the knees in
like manner with the puckered
sleeves in England, with white turbans
bound by the same coloured
ribband; the rowers, resting on their
oars in a familiar uniform, made
a most picturesque appearance.

My foolish heart was in the
bugero, before my father, at the
earnest solicitations of his friends,
and a look of desire from me, assisted
me to descend from the ship;
but, when descended, my astonishment
and delight so abundantly 7 increased C1r 17
increased at each advanced step, that
the European world faded bfeorebefore
my eyes, and I became orientalised
at all points.

Eight gentlemen, three of whom
were my father’s particular friends,
and four ladies, were the party;
and it appears to me, Arabella,
that I shall find every poetical description
realised in this enchanting
quarter of the globe; for be it
known to you, in the language of
Southern’s Oroonoko, that when
presented to the gentlemen as my
father’s daughter, I bowed, and
blushed; and, if I have any skill in
physiognomy, they wondered and
adored; and such, I already understand,
is the court paid to ladies at
Calcutta, that it would be well
worth any vain woman’s while, who Vol. I. C has C1v 18
has a tolerable person, to make the
voyage I have done, in order to
enjoy unbounded homage.

The chief article of refreshment
was claret, which was drank
with great freedom, under the
name of Loll Shrub. Coffee, tea
sweetmeats, &c. &c. were offered,
but in general refused, except by
my father, who is fond of coffee to
a degree that I think will not accord
with his health in this relaxing
climate.

A kittensan boy instantly took his
stand behind my chair, and an attendant,
called a Bearer, flew backward
and forward in my service;
and in this state we reached Diamond
Point, a place of debarkation,
where we found a suitable number C2r 19
number of Palanquins in waiting
to accommodate us all.

I was startled, Arabella, however
prepared, on finding myself
hoisted on the men’s shoulders;
for I need not observe to you, the
only difference between a palanquin
and a London sedan-chain,
(except the travelling ones) is their
having short poles fastened to the
central part of the sides, the front
pair of which have a curve for the
bearers better hold—Venetian
blinds instead of glass windows—
and in the mode of carrying.

It was evening; I therefore, as
well as my father, and the rest of the
company, had two har-carriers, or
flambeaux-bearers, running before
me; and I felt all the dignity of C2 my C2v 20
my transition; though I will confess
to you, the Tok, Tok, their almost
perpetual cry, to clear the
way; did not fall so agreeable on
my ear as I could have wished;
nor was I able to suppress the invocation
of aura veni at every footstep.

From the point where we landed,
to the Esplanade, (a place I shall
describe to you on my own acquaintance
with it) is almost four
miles; and swiftly did we pass
along; for it seems these palanquin-bearers
(with proper relays,
as is the case with those that perform
journies) are so expert, that
in defiance of the heat, &c. &c.
they go at the rate of nine to nine to
twelve miles an hour.

I could only observe by the light
of the flambeaux (though a host of
servants poured forth to receive us)
that the entrance to Hartly House
was by means of a double flight
of stone steps, at the top of which
we found a spacious balcony, called
a veranda, covered in by Venetian
blinds, and lighted up with wax
candles, placed under glass shades,
to prevent their extinction from
the free admission of the evening
breeze; together with a couple of
card-tables, furnished at all points,
for those disposed to occupy them,
with very many other polite et cætera’s.

Here I met with new homage,
in the form of congratulations on
my safe arrival; but recollecting,
it would not be to forfeit it in future,
if I declined it at the then C3 moment, C3v 22
moment, I complained of fatigue,
and was conducted to an apartment
that would have satisfied a princess,
though neither more nor less
than a common genteel sleeping—
room.

The furniture was all Chinese,
of the elegant material and manufacture
of which, even you people
in England have a very tolerable
idea; but the vases and the perfumes
were superior to every thing
of the kind within my knowledge,
and as such had a fine effect on my
feelings.

My musketto curtains are made
of beautiful muslin, extremely full,
and capable of considerable expansion;
and it is the custom for the
servants to beat them immediately before C4r 23
before going to bed, to clear them of
those insects; when they are just sufficiently
opened to admit the party,
and suddenly closed to exclude
those troublesome nocturnal companions;
then, being spread out
wide, they admit the air in the
most refreshing degree. Apropos
of muskettos; I must tell you,
though I shudder at the bare recollection
of so vulgar a nuisance,
that, in like manner with the bugs
in London, they mercilessly annoy
all new-comers, blistering them,
and teazing, if not torturing them
continually; and in a great measure
spare those who are seasoned
to the climate.

And now let me ask you your
opinion of my attachment to you,
when I can thus forego the highest C4 earthly C4v 24
earthly pleasures, flattery and luxurious
accommodation, for your
amusement.—But perhaps, instead
of thinking yourself obliged
to me, you will, with the true European
sang-froid suspect me of
self-gratification in my descriptions;
—beware, however, of such
erroneous conclusions, as you value
the future favours of your own

P.S. We are, they tell me,
(yet such a present warmth,
that, without the information, I
should not have supposed it) arrived
at the commencement of the
temperate season, and I am taught
to expect a very fine climate for
five successive months, the monsoons
not coming on until February,ary, C5r 25
when agues and fevers are
epidemic; and my constitution,
no doubt, Arabella, must undergo
its naturalization; for few
indeed are the exception to these
severe attacks, which often lead
down to final dissolution.—The
idea shakes my constancy! Oh!
pray devoutly with me, that my
dearest father may be spared in his
own health, and unwounded in
mine; for well do I know he
could depart in peace, if his child
was not to be left behind.—And
to survive her!—Can any thought
be more killing? Good night!—I
will try to lose it, and all my cares,
in that sweet balm of our existence,
sleep. Once more, therefore, good
night!

Letter III.

It is morn, you must understand,
Arabella, with us sons and daughters
of the East, six hours at least
before you enjoy the glorious, however
weakened sun-beams; and I
awoke to encounter new wonders.

Having breakfasted, (which I
find is the only degagé meal I must
hope to enjoy, every one ordering
what is most agreeable to their
choice a al volonté; whilst, on the
contrary, dinner, tea, and supper
are kind of state levees) knowing 8 that C6r 27
that in the next apartment to mine,
a country-born young lady—as the
phrase is, to distinguished them from
Europeans—was lodged, whom I
had found extremely winning in
her address during our voyage in
the bugero, and declaredly ambitious
to be admitted on the lift of
my friends; I took it in my head to
visit her en passant, and make her a
morning compliment; and this
the more particularly, because she
had not given us her company at
breakfast, and I imagined she
might have taken cold on the
water.—But judge my surprise,
Arabella, when, on entering her
chamber, I found her under the
hands of her hair-dresser, actually
smoking a pipe.

But let me caution you against every C6v 28
every plebeian idea on the occasion,
for that pipe was a most superb
hooka, the bell filled with rose-water;
and instead of odious tobacco,
a preparation of the betel-root,
rolled up, and wetted, was placed
in the bole, which bole was beautiful
china-ware, covered with a
filligree silver cap, with a mouthpiece
of the same materials.—Nor
can I give you the conception of
the graceful manner inin which the
snake (the ornamented tube)
was twinned through the rails of her
chair, and turned under her arm,
so as not to have incommoded any
person seated by her; or the genteel
air with which she drew out
the soft fume, and puffed it forth
alternately (for none of it is retained.)
—In a word, I wished to
have taken her portrait on the spot, for C7r 29
for her form is elegant, her complexion
near the European standard,
and the novelty of her attitude
such, as rendered them altogether
an admirable subject for the pencil.

This kind of smoking is, I am
told, the characteristic custom of
the country-born ladies; and the servant,
dressed as I have already described,
whose sole business it is to
arrange the snake, feed the fire on
his knees, and take care of the
whole apparatus, is called the
hooka-bearer, and is an indispensable
appendages of eastern state and
etiquette. The gentlemen, without
distinction, indulge themselves
this way, and as naturally,
I am informed, fill up the
period of their hair-dressing with their C7v 30
their hookas, as those in England
with perusing the daily prints, and
unquestionably to a more beneficial
purpose; for the health is preserved
or promoted by the practice:
whereas news-paper reading, in
your fashionable world, only furnishes
the head with politics, and
the heart with scandals, no very estimable
acquisition, I hope you will
grant me, for a rational member of
the community.

I have this morning enabled
myself to give you some idea of the
houses at Calcutta—for all of them,
of any consequence, are, I am assured,
built upon a similar plan,
though not all with similar advantages
of situation. To begin
with

Letter IV.

Thomson certainly passed
a part of his life under
this meridian, so applicable are the
above lines to my present situation.
—You cannot therefore wonder, if
you give them an attentive perusal,
at the weakness into which I was
surprised at the conclusion of my
last letter, or that the poet’s words, “All-conquering heat! O intermit thy wrath, And on my throbbing temples potent thus Beam not so fierce.” D3 should D3v 38
should at this moment spontaneously
flow from my pen.—But we
will talk no more of it.

The royal levee was never more
crowded than mine—fine fellows,
Arabella, without number!—the
East India Company’s servants! the
English sovereign’s servants!—I
trust I shall not dwindle again into
my former self, or yawn away my
days under your gloomy atmosphere.
—But I wander wide from
my intended subject.

I have been at church, my dear
girl, in my new palanquin, (the
mode of genteel conveyance) where
all ladies are approached, by sanction
of ancient custom, by all gentlemen
indiscriminately, known or
unknown, with offers of their hand to D4r 39
to conduct them to their seat; accordingly,
those gentlemen who
wish to change their condition,
(which, between ourselves, are
chiefly old fellows, for the young
ones either chuse country-born ladies
for wealth, or, having left their
hearts behind them, enrich themselves,
in order to be united to their
favourite dulcineas in their native
land) on hearing of a ship’s arrival,
make a point of repairing
to this holy dome, and eagerly
tender their services to the
fair strangers; who, if this stolen
view happens to captivate, often,
without undergoing the ceremony
of a formal introduction, receive
matrimonial overtures, and, becoming
brides in the utmost possible
splendor, have their rank instantaneously
established, and are visited, D4 and D4v 40
and paid every honour to which
the consequence of their husbands
entitles them.—But not so your
friend; for, having accompanied
my father to India, no overtures of
that nature will be attempted, previous
to an acquaintance with him,
or at least under his encouraging
auspices; nor did any gentleman
break in upon the circle of my surrounding
intimates, on this first
public exhibition of my person,
though every male creature in Calcutta,
entitled to that privilege,
bid Mr. and Mrs. Hartly expect an
early visit from them.—On my
mentioning the church, you will
perhaps fancy I ought to recount,
to you its magnificence and style of
architecture; but the edifice dignified
at present with that appellation
does not deserve notice. It is situated D5r 41
situated at the Old Fort, and consists
solely of a ground–floor, with
an arrangement of plain pews; nor
is the Governer himself much better
accommodated than the rest;
and of course the Padra, as the
clergyman is called, has little to
boast of; the windows are, however,
verandas, which are pleasing
to me in their appearance, independent
of the blessing of air enjoyed
through that medium.—But
at the New Fort there is a new
church erecting, on quite an European
model, with galleries, a set of
bells, and every suitable et cætera;
the plan and foundation of which
I have seen, conversed with the
architect, and, from the whole,
form very high expectations of
the superstructure. One remark,
however, is a propos on this subject;ject; D5v 42
namely, that the house of
prayer, at Calcutta, is not the
house of sepulchre. Burying–
grounds are provided some miles
from the town, which, I am given
to understand, are well worth the
visit of a stranger. I will only add,
that though this measure may have
arisen from the fervid heat of this
climate (where death is busy) which
gives the idea of rapid putridity,
yet surely it is disgracing the temple
of the Divinity, (admitting
even that in England no bad consequence
results from such deposits)
to make it a charnel–house.—Let
this suffice for churches, except the
mention, that at Calcutta Sunday
is the only day of public devotion,
and that only in the morning;
though the Padre’s salary is liberal,
and his prerequisites immense.

Think you, Arabella, that on
mentioning the awful repositories
of the dead, I forgot my dear mother’s
sacred remains?—Surely no.
—But I wish not to hang unnecessary
weights on your spirits, and
therefore reserve all I have to say
on that heart-searching subject, for
the period that enables me to tell
you, I have beheld her hallowed
tomb, and paid the best tribute in
my poor power to her beloved
memory!—Adieu! adieu!—I will
resume my pen the first opportunity;
but can no more at present.

Letter V.

You would, my Arabella, be
enraptured at the extreme
neatness of even the meanest attendant;
but besides the beauty and
the virtue of cleanliness, it is the
only fence in the East against putrid
diseases. That unerring guide,
Nature, who teaches the people of
the North to fortify themselves
with furs against their inclement
seasons, bids the inhabitants of Indostan
be correctly delicate in their
persons, and personal attire: to
which the circumstances of all the
servants being Gentoos not a little
contributes; for diurnal emersion
in the river Ganges is one of the strict D7r 45
strict articles of their religions, at
the same time that it is a general
benefit to the Europeans.

The Moors, or Mohometans, and
the Gentoos, compose the chief body
of the public; but perhaps, Arabella,
you may wish and expect I
should present you with some account
of the ancient inhabitants
of this astonishing empire, before I
introduce you to an acquaintance
with the moderns, as the living
generations may possibly be deemed
by you.—You must, however, excuse
me; historical anecdotes are
not compatible with either the taste
or leisure of a fine lady at Bengal.
I will indeed advance so far on this
heavy ground in your service, as to
inform you where you may meet
with such matter of fact, and spare myself D7v 46
myself the drudgery, as well as
the disgrace, of exercising my pen
thereon.—Yet, when I turn my
thoughts that way, I must believe
it will cost me less labour to write
the little it is necessary for you to
read, than to refer you to chapter
and verse of those authors who
have treated of this world of wonders;
for, in the first place, Arabella,
take notice, the work of
creation was performed in the East,
and in the East Christianity received
its birth; in consequence of which
which great circumstances, the sublime
ideas and discoveries perpetually
opening themselves upon
my mind, can alone be even faintly
conceived by you, if you, (as I recommend
it to you to do) travel
over so highly-distinguished a region,
traced out as it is on your globes, D8r 47
globes, with the sacred and profane
writers of antiquity in your
hand—when your entertainment
will be ample. I speak from experience.
—The other particulars
run thus:—

India, is supposed, was first
peopled from Persia, (which, in
conjunction with the Indian ocean,
is its western boundary) because, by
its contiguity to that kingdom, it
lies in the way of Mesopotamia,
where, it is generally agreed, the
descendants of Noah settled after
the deluge.—Be this as it may, it
is evidently the southern division,
(for there is not a white man, or any
complexion but black, amongst
its numerous inhabitants) and was
possessed by the Ethiopians: their
colour, long hair, and regular featurestures D8v 48
being markingly different
from the blacks of Guinea; and, as
a further proof of their Ethiopian
origin, we read in our Bible, that
the queen Sheba (which Sheba
is only another name of Ethiopia)
sent presents to his wife king Solomon,
of many fine spices–which
alone grow in India, and were
brought thither from Ethiopia for
cultivation.

The next people who possessed
the country were Arabians; for certain
it is, that almost the whole
coast was subject to Arabian or
Mahometan princes, when the
Portoguese arrived there in 15501500;
which Arabs, there is held little
doubt, dispossessed the Ethiopians
of their territories, and drove
them up into the midlands country,
which they still inhabit.

The next invaders were the
Mogul Tartars under Tamerlane,
about the year 14001400, who fixed his
third son in the North of India
and Persia; but the Southern provinces
were not reduced under the
dominion of the Mogul, until the
reign of Aurengzebe, in 16671667. This
prince, it seems, had been shewn
some of the large diamonds from
the mines of Golconda (the grand
magnet at this day), and was
thence induced to attempt the
conquest thereof; and a good substantial
motive it was; whereas
the mighty Alexander overspread
the universe with his armies, for
the sole purpose of restoring, in the
form of a generous act, those kingdoms
his superior force wrested
from their lawful and peaceful possessors.
—But to return to Aurengzebe.Vol. I. E zebe. E1v 50
He made himself at length
master of all the country as far as
Cape Comorin, which, if you look
in your map, you will find to be
the most Southern promontory of
India; but the midland country being
very mountainous and woody,
and subject moreover to several
Ethiopian princes called Rajahs,
preserved, by their united efforts,
their independence; insomuch, that
they alone acknowledge the Mogul
for their sovereign, at the present
period, in instance, you will meet
with hereafter.

In the time of the famous Persian
monarch, Khouli Khan, the
Mogul throne was possessed by a
great grandson of Aurengzebe, who
was made prisoner by that bold and
enterprising Persian, and obliged to E2r 51
to cede to him all the north–west
provinces of India, to obtain his
liberty. This invasion cost the
poor Gentoos two hundred thousand
lives. As to the plunder
made by Khouli Khan, well-authenticated
accounts speak it to
be no less than two hundred and
thirty millions sterling; his own
private share of which was considerably
above seventy millions,
and may be considered as terminating
the greatness of the Mogul
empire in the house of Tamerlane:
nevertheless, when he had raised all
the money he could in Delhi, he
reinstated the Mogul Mahommed
Shah in the sovereignty, and returned
to his own country.

The general defection of the provincesE2 vinces E2v 52
ensued, none being willing
to yield obedience to a prince deprived
of the power of enforcing
it. The provinces ceded to Khouli
Khan were only a short time enjoyed
by him; for in 17471747 he was
assassinated, and Achmet Abdallah,
his treasurer, equally unprincipled
as his royal master, being a man
of great intrepidity, found means,
in general confusion, to carry
off three hundred camels loaded
with wealth, and, putting himself
at the head of an army, marched
against Delhi with fifty thousand
horse. Thus was the wealth, drawn
from the powerful city, made the
instrument of continuing the miseries
of war, which it had at first
brought upon them. At present,
the imperial dignity is vested, after manifold E3r 53
manifold revolutions, in a prince
that is universally acknowledged
to be the true heir of Tamerlane
race; but his power is feeble,
the city of Delhi, and a small territory
round it, being all that is
left remaining to that ancient and
magnificent house; and he depends
upon the protection of the English,
whose interest it is to support him,
as his authority is best legal
guarantee.

The point of prudence, however,
is the East India Company, is, that
their Governors should interfere as
little as possible in the domestic or
national quarrels of the country
powers; peace and tranquillity best
promoting their commercial interests.
The wars with the Marattas,E3 tas E3v 54
and Prince Hyder Ally, indeed,
prove, that these maxims
have not always been properly adhered
to.—But I do not intend to
pass myself off for a politician;
and, therefore, leaving these modern
particulars undiscussed, affirm,
that this is historical knowledge
sufficient for any reasonable woman,
who is in the way of receiving
more extensive intelligence
from incidental observation and
hourly occurrences. But I must
beseech you to keep these matters
distinct in your head, that you may
comprehend, on the infant, the
references or elucidations I may
present you with.

You will marvel at my reading
and literary talents; but please to remem- E4r 55
remember, that we alone know our
depth of information or abilities,
when occasion calls them forth.I
need not say how much I am,

Letter VII.

To taste the beauties of this
poet’s pencil, Arabella, you must
visit Bengal, where, I am more
than ever convinced, he penned
his glowing description of a climate
and its characteristics, Fancy,
with all her fire, could not,
unassisted by the facts, have suggested.
—The produce of this Eastern soil
is the palm, the cocoa-nut, the
tamarind, the guava, the orange,
lemon, pomegranate, pine, &c.
&c. in the highest perfection; nor
can they be spoken of, by an animatedVol. I. G mated G1v 82
beholder, in terms of common
approbation. For my part,
my mental exclamation is, “O for
a muse, adequate to the sublimity
of the subject! that the wonderworking
hand of Nature might be
fitly celebrated by me!”—for, as
Thomson again expresses himself, “Great are the scenes— —that see, each circling year, Returning suns and double seasons pass:”
and poetry, Arabella, is the natural
language, where all is loveliness,
and magnificence, and power exhaustless
as infinite.—But I am lost,
you will perceive, in the immensity
of my subject: “Come, then,”
as my favourite bard has it, of the
Deity, on the similar occasion— “Come then, expressive Silence! muse his praise.” On G2r 83

On so vast a scale, indeed, are
all things in this country, both human
and divine, that if any earthborn
creature could be pardoned
the sin of ambition, it would be the
Asiatics; nor can I doubt, from
all I have already seen and heard,
that numbers of them are proud
enough to believe, and apply to
themselves, the poet’s language: “For me the mine a thousand treasures brings; For me health gushes from a thousand springs; Seas roll to wast me, suns to light me rise; My footstool earth, my canopy the skies.”
At least, we may fairly conclude
the Moguls, in their day of splendor,
were of this haughty faith, if
we read the following description
of their encampments:

His residences (the Mogul emperor)G2 peror) G2v 84
during the temperate season,
which lasts four or five months,
are in the field; and few curiosities
in the Eastern world were more
striking than his camp; for, besides
the military men, (which amounted
to above 100,000, who
carried their wives and families
with them) he was attended by
most of the great men in the empire,
and followed by all kinds of
merchants and tradesmen from the
capital cities—in the whole, above
a million of people; and, with this
retinue, he made a tour of a thousand
miles every year, through
some part of his dominions; and
heard the complaints of his meanest
subjects (an astonishing trait in
so lofty a character!) if they happened
to be oppressed by his nabobs
or viceroys.

A caravan, of ten thousand camels
and oxen, constantly attended
the camp, and brought provisions
from every part of the country;
the commander of which was styled
a prince, and vested with great
power; his office being to furnish
the camp with provisions.

The camp was at least twenty
miles in circumference, and formed
in a circular manner; the Mogul’s
tent and his women’s being
on an eminence in the centre,
and separated from the rest by a
high screen on inclosure; next to
which were the nobility, generals,
and people of distinction, in another
circle; the rest succeeding in
circles, according to their quality;
the inferior people being nearest G3 the G3v 86
the outside of the camp: nor do I
marvel, that such an emperor, at
such a period, should be induced,
in the vanity of his heart, to style
himself the Governor of the Universe,
the Ornament of the Earth,
&c.&c. as is the custom, on the
assumption of the imperial diadem;
though, in the present circumscribed
condition of the empire,
those high-sounding titles are totally
inapplicable.—But to descend
to humbler subjects.

The East India Company, I find,
pay the rent of such houses as the
captains of their ships occupy during
their residence at Calcutta;
and it is well they do, or it would
be a heavy tax upon their purse;
for, could you suppose it possible
such a sum as 500 sacre rupees (sixty G4r 87
(sixty pounds) per month, could
be decently demanded, or chearfully
paid, by these birds of passage?
it is, nevertheless, the fact:
accordingly, those gentlemen, who
have it in their power, build elegant
dwelling-houses, at the expence
of 30, 40, 50, and 60,000
rupees, for the purpose of letting
them ready furnished; and, I am
assured I shall see many, which
near the astonishing rent of 900
and 1000 pounds sterling per year,
without a table, chair, or one necessary
unhired at an equally extravagant
rate.

The streets of Calcutta, at the
part of the town inhabited by
trades-people (who, by the way,
are all Blacks, except what are
called the Europe shops, of which G4 I shall G4v 88
I shall speak hereafter) are distinguished
by the name of the beisars,
or traders, by which they are occupied;
as, the bada beisar, (fruit
and pastry); the muehee beisar, (the
fish–market); the dwedwallar beisar,
(milk–sellers); suedwallar beisar,
(hog–merchants); chine beisar,
(sugar–venders) &c. &c. Moreover,
cards form a separate article
of merchandise, and the shops for
selling them furnish on whole
street—a proof of their great consumption
and value in the East.

The Europe shops, as you will
naturally conclude, are those warehouses
where all the British finery
imported is displayed and purchased;
and such is the spirit of
many ladies on visiting them, that
there have been instances of their spending G5r 89
spending 30 or 40,000 rupees in
one morning, for the decoration of
their persons; on which account many husbands are observed to
turn pale as ashes, on the bare
mention of their wives being seen
to enter them: but controul is
not an article of matrimonial rule
at Calcutta; and the men are obliged
to make the best of their
conjugal mortifications.

Five streets, well built, and inhabited
alone by persons of genteel
rank, open on the Esplanade,
which is ornamented to a great
extent, in view of the first houses
of each (one of which is the Governor’s)
with iron palisades, and
makes a magnificent appearance.
I shall enlarge upon this subject as
soon as I have made my intended tour G5v 90
tour through the town; the whole
of which, however, is a flat situation,
and the habitations are scattered
over a great space of ground;
for the gardens, particularly the
Company’s and Governor’s, are
extensive; for, as it is one of the chief
pleasures of the country, to admire
the beauties of vegetations, enjoy
the shade, and feed on the delicacies
so bountifully bestowed by
Nature, it is their pride to possess
them all together in their prime
excellence, to speak at once their
fine taste, and abundant fortune,
to every beholder.

What a motley epistle is this!
the great sublime, succeeded by
the most inferior topics; but, Arabella,
these transitions are not to be G6r 91
be avoided, on a spot, where vivacity
and dignity of mind is
transient, and a low ebb of both
the one and the other, the consequence
of langour not to be resisted,
and of gusts of heat not to be
described.

Letter VIII.

How prophetic were my
words, Arabella, where I
mention my apprehensions of the
refusals I should be called upon to
make!—A painful talk to a feeling,
and not illiberal mind; but we
must all submit to our destiny.

An old fellow, with an incredible
fortune, ogles me, and professes
his life depends on his obtaining
the honour of my hand
my father smiles—and I, with an
air of indolent complanence (the
air of the country) receive his devoirs
as the just tribute of my transcendentscendent G7r 93
charms; which charms
(it is already got into circulation)
are held by me above all price (for
the fetter of my vow has not yet
transpired); which may possibly
tend to a diminution in the train
of my adorers, at least on the arrival
of the next ships; for, as the
life of a butterfly in but an hour,
so the ladies, who wish to see themselves
advantageously disposed of,
must reprobate the antediluvian
practice, and be careful not to let
the iron grow cold on the anvil;
which, with few exceptions, is the
universal conduct: so that, I doubt
not, I shall soon behold this love-
stricken greybeard at the feet of
some more yielding damsel:—and
may she make him as happy as she
will slatter herself his wealth can
render her; nor once experience the G7v 94
the common fate of such expectations
—finding she has been self-
deceived!

Here is also a little dapper fellow,
in a yellow silk coat, that
buzzes soft things in my ear, and
affects to keep all the rest of his
sex at a distance: but I have given
it in commission to Mrs. Hartly,
to hint to him, that such behaviour
is not lawful; the accepted lover
alone being entiled to monopolize
his fair one. I suppose we shall
have him in the pouts on the occasion;
this is, however, no formidable
circumstance at Calcutta,
where you may chuse and refuse at
will.

What gives the men such constant
access to the ladies their rank 7 entitles G8r 95
entitles them to visit, is, that on being
once introduced, you make their
abode an home—walk in and out
at pleasure—have your chair and
attendant ready for you, as a matter
of course—and the only wonder
is, what can have become of your
new friends, if they happen to absent
themselves without a declared engagement.
At breakfast, they tell
me the news of the day; at dinner,
solicit me to drink so many
glasses of wine with them, that I
ring unending changes on negative
phrases (and those the best chosen)
to prove my fund of polite language,
and soften my cruel denials;
at the card-table they lose their
money with a good grace; and, at
supper, are brilliant companions:
nor be it unobserved by you (tho’
your matrimonial chance is beyondyond G8v 96
measure critical) you do not
forfeit your claims to homage or
adoration, on becoming a wife;
whence Slander is often busy. The
opportunities are, indeed, inconceivable
for amour, if the inclination
be prompt; but I verily believe,
that gallantry at Calcutta is,
like gallantry in France, carried
on by friendly compact amongst
all parties: I trust you with my
wife—you trust me with yours;—
and that the abuse of such well–bred
confidence is a rare instance of the
ill effects thereof.

One or two offers, for their generosity
and respectability, have
been noticed by my father; and,
with every profession of gratitude,
declined by me. Mrs. Hartly
remonstrates, from looking forwardward H1r 97
(she kindly says) to alarms
such conduct gives rise to—from
implying some European engagement,
that must eventually deprive
her of my company. I assure her,
she is mistaken, I perceive, in vain;
for it appears to her an absurdity,
to believe, a heart, that possesses
its freedom, should shut the door
against unexceptionable overtures.
I own, Arabella, I cannot account
for it myself, unless it can be possible,
that the multitude renders
me indifferent to individuals; and,
true it is, that you have not leisure
for the observations, so necessary to
be made previous to an union for
life, in these crowded scenes; or (if
you can pardon the seeming levity)
sufficient time to know your own
mind; one agreeable impression
being immediately, if not chased Vol. I. H away, H1v 98
away, blended with another: in
short, my hour of attachment is not
come; and I never will be prevailed
upon to separate, or (what
is the same thing) endanger the
separation, of my hand and heart.

Was there any prospect of your
coming to Bengal, I might, perhaps,
think otherwise than, I am
convinced, I ever shall do, with
the reflection on events that would
prevent our ever meeting more.

Letter IX.

Letter X.

The manners of the ladies at
Calcutta are somewhat contradictory
—now all softness and
femininity, and now all courage
and resolution; as your shall hear:

They take a particular pleasure,
on the one hand, in obliging and informing
strangers—melt into tears
at every tale of sorrow—and sweetly
sympathize with those whose spirits
are depressed; on the other hand,
you behold them so little attentive
to female decorum, and so fearless
of danger, that a scarlet riding
dress, which gives them most the I4 appear- I4v 120
appearance of the other sex, enraptures
them—and, to drive a phaeton
and pair with a vivacity, a degagement,
or whatever may be the
proper epithet, to mark their skill
and unconcern, in the midst of
numberless spectators, is their delight;
whilst I, on beholding every
such exhibition, say, with Dr.
Young,
“—Such charioteers as these May drive six harness’d monarchs, if they
please.”
for, to characterize them completely
in your sight, I must add, that
the ladies of gaiety and ton always
make a point, on these occasions,
who lolls at his ease; the office of
managing the reins, &c. &c. being
wholly assumed by the lady. I wish, I5r 121
wish, nevertheless, you could see
these phaeton enterprisers; for their
attendance and accompaniments
are in the high style of Eastern
etiquette. A servant, in the dress
I have heretofore repeatedly described,
runs on each side the horses,
with long-handled slappers in their
hands, sometimes holding by their
manes, and sometimes at a little
distance; and the effect is both
striking and pleasing. The phaetons
are English built, and ornamented
with all the taste that
country can boast, and all the expence
the Asiatics are forward to
incur, for their exterior importance;
—the horses finely and splendidly
set out, with silver nets to
guard their necks from insects, and
reins elegantly decorated;—and,
to finish the whole, a kittensaw is suspended, I5v 122
suspended, not unfrequently, over
the lady’s head—which gives her
the true Eastern grandeur of appearance.

Lady C—m—rs, who, by the
way, is one of the examples of the
unions which here take place (I
mean as to the disparity of age) is
one of the most celebrated on this
fashionable list; and, for attendant
beaux, both as to smartness and
variety, yields to no one.

Mrs. Hartly is, however, quite
another order of beings, and like
myself, is the daughter of an East
Indian captain, but conveyed by
her father to Calcutta much earlier
in life;—she has, therefore, or at
least I imagine so, imbibed all their
amiable prejudices, and thinks matrimonytrimony I6r 123
the duty of every young
woman, who meets with an offer
she cannot disapprove;—for she
persuades herself, and, perhaps, on
experience, that esteem is the best
basis of affection, and best security
for our rejoicing in the choice we
make; for what is called love (a
propensity to approve, without the
sanction of reason or pause of
sentiment) she affirms, blinds the
understanding, and causes us to
rest satisfied with pleasing manners,
with too little attention to moral
rectitude; an error in judgment
and a self-desertion, she asserts, we
smart under to the latest moment
of our existence.—I am, nevertheless,
unconvinced, and unconverted.

She is, however, perfectly free
from those traits of affectation which I6v 124
which are so generally conspicuous
in a flattered woman, (and flattery
at Calcutta is, literally speaking,
our daily bread) has a cultivated
understanding, and a feeling heart,
and is at once the honour and
happiness of her husband; my beloved
mother, moreover, expired in
her friendly arms: judge, then, if
she is not dear to me!—But these
are the very things that constitute
my danger; for I know, though
she knows it not, that without a
congeniality of taste, of seriousness,
there is no chance of felicity for
me as a wife.—In a word, Arabella,
my father is the model of
him I can ever love, or ever wish
to unite my destiny with; and,
until I meet with this rara avis (for
well you know the treasures of his head, I7r 125
head, the treasures of his heart,
and most agreeable person) I am
determined to remain,