1822-11-20Nov. 20, 1822.—Here begins the history
of things known only to those who have
bid the American shores a long adieu.
We were employed in arranging our
births, clothes, &c. all day; and as the
weather was calm, we were enabled to go
on without much difficulty.

1822-11-2121. The weather became stormy, and
the sea-sickness commenced.

1822-11-2222. It blew very hard in the day, and
in the night increased to a gale; sea-sickness
increased with it. I was myself very
sick.

1822-11-2323. Saturday morning at daybreak
shipped a sea. The water rushed into the
cabin. I saw it with very little fear; and
felt inclined to say, “‘The Lord reigneth,
let us all rejoice.’” I was so weak that I
was almost unable to help myself. At 10
o’clock I went on deck: the scene that
presented itself was, to me, the most sublime
I ever witnessed. “How,” thought I,
“can ‘those who go down to the sea in
ships’ deny the existence of God.” The
day was spent in self-examination. This,
if ever, is the time to try my motives in
leaving my native land. I found myself
at times unwilling to perish so near my
friends; but soon became composed, and
resigned to whatever should be the will
of my Heavenly Father. I believed that
my motives were pure: and a calm and
heavenly peace soon took possession of
my breast. Oh that it were always with
me as it is this day!

1822-11-2424. Sabbath. The weather still squally,
and our family still in bad health. We
had no publick service to-day. My soul
longed for the courts of the Lord; but my
heart was still rejoicing in the strength of
my God.

1822-11-2525. The ocean has become much
smoother than it has been for some time.
Our family are recovering very fast; nothing
particular has occurred to-day.

1822-11-2626. The weather is delightful, and we
feel much better. The ladies wanted a
pudding for dinner. Two or three volunteered
their services and a pudding was
made. I, for my part, felt no inclination
either to make or eat it. I stayed with
Mrs. S. In the midst of their business the
man on the mast called out, “A sail ho!”
We were all elate for a few minutes. If
we had seen a friend who had been absent
for a long time we could not have
hailed him with more delight. We bore

for the ship, and soon discovered her to
be the Penn of Philadelphia. Preparations
were made for speaking her. The sea
was too rough to permit us to send letters.
She came near enough to hail us,
but we could only say “All’s well” after being
at sea a week.

1822-12-01December 1. Sabbath. My soul longed
again for the house of the Lord; I endeavoured
to find him present with me;
and soon indeed found that he was near
to all that call on him. I enjoyed the day
although we were prevented from having
worship until afternoon—owing to the
roughness of the weather and the unsettled
state of the ship.

1822-12-022. Employed in making arrangements
in the cabin; the day fair and the ship
running at the rate of six miles an hour.
The weather is much warmer than I have
felt it since I left home. In the evening
we had the monthly concert of prayer.

1822-12-033. We are almost settled and things are
in good order. The bell rings at daylight,
and we have prayers at sunrise.
Mrs. Stewart is getting much better.

1822-12-044. Nothing particular has occurred today;
we are still on our course direct for
Cape de Verd.

1822-12-055. The weather is good, and all of us
are in good health and spirits. The captain
and officers attend our meeting, and
the sailors appear to treat the missionaries
with respect.

1822-12-2323. The weather delightful; and the
crew all engaged in making oil of two
black fish killed yesterday. This is fine
amusement for the missionaries. We have
had corn parched in the oil; and doughnuts
fried in it. Some of the company
liked it very much. I could not prevail
on myself to eat it. I tasted the flesh and
liver of the fish, which were very good.
The flesh is very much like beef, and the
liver like a hog’s.

1822-12-2424. At 11 o’clock we had a heavy gale.
It did no damage to the rigging. I was
amused very much during the gale by one
of the landsmen, as they call them; who
was ordered to “slack the weather bowling”,
but not understanding the phrase he let
it go. Such accidents in a squall cause no
small noise, and make our captain lift up
his voice like a trumpet. Some of our
family like a gale very much. I have not
got quite to that yet: however, I can view
it with very little emotion in the daytime.
In the night I sometimes feel unpleasantly.
My bed hangs so near the cabin windows,
that I have a full view of the water: and
during a gale the waves appear as if they
were coming directly into the cabin.

1822-12-2525. Christmas. How unlike the last!
But the day was pleasant, and I enjoyed
myself very much; yet could not forbear
thinking of my native land. We expected Vol. II.—Ch. Adv. 2G G2v 234 May.
to have made St. Jago; but the wind not
favouring us, we were obliged to put
about for Cape Horn, without landing.
This was something of a trial, as it disappointed
all our expectations of communication
with our friends.—Saw a large
flock of flying fish. They rise from the
water a little distance, when pursued by
larger fish, and sometimes fly on board.
They have a delicious flavour, and are
equal to any fresh water fish I ever tasted.

1822-12-3030. Sabbath. Had prayer meeting in
the morning, and preaching in the afternoon
at 4 o’clock. Mr. Stewart preached
from 1 Cor. i. 23. I enjoyed the Sabbath
very much, and thought I felt something
of the love of God in my heart. But still
I felt as if I was declining in the spiritual
life. I attend a little to the study of the
Bible, and find it pleasant. Yet I find a
void within my breast that is painful. The
scenes which constantly present themselves
to my view are new and interesting;
and I find they have a tendency to
draw my mind from Him who is, or ought
to be, my only joy. With the poor publican
I will say, “God be merciful to me a
sinner.” At six in the evening, we caught
two sharks, and saw a number of dolphins.
The flesh of the shark is very good when
young.

1822-12-3131. I was much interested in witnessing
the harpooning of a large shark. It
was taken at the stern of the ship, about
6 yards from the cabin window, from
which I had a clear view of it. It was
struck by two harpoons at the same time.
The fish (if we may call it one, for it has
very little the appearance of a fish) was
so angry that he endeavoured to bite the
men after he was on deck. His jaw bone
was taken out and preserved by one of
the missionaries. We see a great number
of them, and take them frequently. I have
not been able to preserve any curiosities
for Mr. J—. If I were to return I could
amuse him a long time, with telling the
simple facts that I have witnessed, and the
things I have seen: and at the close of
the month and year I will mention a few.
The colour of the water near land, is of a
greenish hue; a little farther out it is of a
bluish tint; and in the middle of the
ocean it is of a dark blue, and very clear.
I never saw a more beautiful green than
the colour of the water off Cape Blanco,
where we were nearly driven by an unfavourable
wind. From this we steered
S. W. by S. between the African coast,
and the Cape De Verd islands; and then
directed our course S. S. W. to the coast
of Brazil. If it were in my power I would
like to describe the Phosphorescence of
the sea. But to do this would require the
pen of a Milton: and he, I think, would
fail, were he to attempt it. I never saw

any display of Fire-works that equalled it
for beauty. As far as we could see the
ocean, in the wake of the ship, it appeared
one sheet of fire, and exhibited figures
of which you can form no idea. We have
bathed during this month frequently, and
find the water very refreshing. Yesterday,
at 8 in the morning, the thermometer
stood at 80°. The missionaries all
went in to bathe, with their pantaloons:
Mr. B. wore his shirt also, and dived three
times from the ship; the last time he
staid too long in the water, so that the
strength of his arms was exhausted, and
he was not able to get into the ship alone.
Mr. Lane, the second mate, dived from
the bowsprit, with a rope, and tied it
round him. At the same time another
was thrown from the side of the vessel.
We felt alarmed for a few moments, but
there was no, real danger. Had he even
fainted, the number of swimmers was so
great that they could have kept him up
until a boat was lowered. I must finish
this year by saying with the Psalmist,
“When I consider the works of thy hands,
Lord what is man that thou art mindful of
him!”

1823-01-04Jan. 4, 1823. Crossed the line. In the
evening, old Neptune visited us, a little
before we came to his garden, as he called
it. His appearance was the most ludicrous
thing I ever saw in my life. He announced
his coming by blowing a large
trumpet. The sailors were most of them
new hands; and the poor fellows were all
put down in the forecastle, and afterwards
brought up, one at a time, before his majesty,
with their eyes covered, to answer
to a number of questions respecting their
lives, business, &c. and why they had
come to sea. He told the mission family,
that as there were so many ladies on board,
he had thought it expedient to bring his
wife with him; and that she was as clever
an old lady as ever was in the world. He
introduced her to the family; but said he
thought it not best for her to shake hands
with them, as she had been handling so
many of her dirty boys. Nor did he think
it proper to shave any one farther aft,
among the ladies. But he would like
something else. Accordingly they sent
him some Spirits and Cakes, and he and
his lady withdrew, telling us that we
might cross his garden at all times. The
manner in which they shave is very disgusting.

1823-01-055. Sabbath. Pleasant and clear in the
morning; a little squally in the afternoon.
Had our usual worship. The day was solemn;
Mr. Bishop preached for us: but
“in vain I sought Him whom my soul
loveth.” I felt very much inclined to despair,
and feared that I had indulged the
hope of the hypocrite. Shall I after all G3r 18241824. 235
become a castaway! Forbid it, O Lord!
nor suffer me to injure the cause I have
espoused.

1823-01-066. Nothing new to-day. All going on
in good order. I find my mind still dark;
and do not feel quite happy. Yet for the
sake of those around me I endeavour to
appear cheerful. I am becoming more
and more attached to Mr. and Mrs. S—,
and trust that God will make me a comfort
to them.

1823-01-088. Going very rapidly, at the rate of
nine and a half miles an hour. The weather
very pleasant. We have not suffered
so much with the heat since we came near
the line, as we did some time ago. The
air is more like that on land than we have
felt it for three weeks past. Saw a large
tortoise, but could not take it, without
delaying the ship too long. We regretted
the loss very much. Fresh meat would
be very acceptable to us; we have had
none since Christmas. Pork and beef are
our standing dishes. Our table makes a
curious appearance. It is spread over
with frames; every plate, dish, and cup,
is fastened; and even thus we cannot get
a meal, at times, without holding with one
hand, while helping ourselves to eat with
the other. We have very little conversation
at the table: all of us get through as
soon as we can. There are eleven persons
at each table: at the first, the captain
and one of the mates, with nine of the
missionaries. At the second, two mates,
three of the missionaries, the four natives
and myself. The provisions of both tables
are alike. In the division of the missionary
stores I always have my share, so
that I have indeed a double portion of the
good things of this life; for Mr. and Mrs.
S. give me always a share with them. The
last apple and orange were cut in three
pieces, and divided between us. The impression
that such little things make on
my mind will not easily be erased. O that
I were worthy of such favours, but I fear
I am not.

1823-02-05Feb. 5th, 1823.—All well and anxious
to get round Cape Horn; a little blow in
the afternoon. We are not without our
fears; but “the Lord reigneth, and we will
rejoice.” Lat. 49° 40’—lon. 62° 08’.

1823-02-06Feb. 6th.—The weather is beginning to
be rather cold. I find my woollen clothes
to be very comfortable: my health is
very good again—a little home sick, but
do not wish to return. O! thought I, if
I could but spend one Sabbath evening
in your study, how my heart would rejoice.
But I must look forward to that
Sabbath which will never end—there to
see, face to face, what we now see dimly
through a glass; and to meet you, with
my other friends, whom I have left behind.
It is a source of consolation to me
to be able to think that you, with many
others in my native land, pray for me.
Were it not for that, I should almost despair.
I find my heart more deeply corrupted
than I had any idea of. I always
knew that the human heart was a sink of
sin, and that mine was filled with it; but
I did not know, until now, that the sink
was without a bottom. I attribute much
of my spiritual difficulty to the want of
retirement and prayer. It is with the
greatest anxiety that I mark the hours as
they pass away, which once were devoted
to God in secret, without having at
present a place for retirement, or indeed
at times a heart to retire. Ah! how soon
may the people of God grieve away his
Holy Spirit. But why should I thus complain
and despond. He is still my Father
and my God—and I still love him—Yes,
“my balm is still in Gilead, and my physician
there.”—Lat. 56° 41’—lon. 63°.

1823-02-07Feb. 7.—Still sailing with all speed towards
Cape Horn. Just as the sun was
setting, we were called to witness one of
the most sublime scenes that ever the
eyes of mortals beheld—no language
could paint it—it was the setting of the
sun. The scene kept changing from
beautiful to more beautiful, until I could
think of nothing but the bright worlds
above, to which the saints are hastening.
As soon as it was over, and the sun had
disappeared, we were assembled on the
quarter deck for prayers. Here my soul
found free access to the throne of grace,

and rose with delight in the contemplation
of that God who is the author of all
our joys, and of all good.

1823-02-08Feb. 8.—I was roused this morning by
Mr. Lane, who came into the cabin to inform
the captain that there was land two
points off the weather bow. The captain
told him to brace and stand for it. I
soon dressed myself, and went on deck
to see it. Its first appearance was that
of a dark cloud; but it became much
darker as we approached it; until we
came near enough to discover cragged
rocks, with a whitish earth running between
them. It was about 12 o’clock
when we first saw the white streaks, and
at 1 we could see the greenish appearance
of the mountains. Half an hour afterwards
we saw a smoke rising from them,
and at 2 a light blaze. It was, however,
soon extinguished. What this fire was,
no one on board could tell—perhaps a
company of sealers had stopped there,
and seeing our ship, lighted it up to
alarm us. Or it might be the signal of
distress for some poor cast-away sailor—
or possibly a volcanic eruption. Our
captain had often passed Staten land before,
but had seen nothing of the kind.
But our situation was too critical to admit
of a moment’s delay to make observations;
for we were now near enough to
see the breakers dashing against this forbidden
shore; and either a calm or
squall might prove fatal to us. I thought
of the language of the poet, as I looked
at these craggy cliffs— “Alas, these rocks all human skill defy, Who strikes them once, beyond relief,
must die.”
We continued sailing near them until 4
o’clock, when a calm ensued. Our captain
said nothing to us, but evidently appeared
troubled. I then knew no danger,
and talked to him as usual—asked
him to send a boat ashore; and jestingly
told him, that I would accompany him.
I thought he appeared very solemn, and
could give no reason for it. The truth
was, that a strong current was drawing
us towards these fatal rocks; and if wind
enough should not rise to render the ship
manageable, we must inevitably be wrecked
upon them, during the ensuing night.
Here you will indulge me with a passing
reflection. I have always remarked, that
in the most dangerous situations, I have
felt the easiest; and it was because I did
not know my danger. And can there be
any thing more like a sleeping Christian,
or an unawakened sinner? both in imminent
danger, and both stupid. O that
God may save me from the spiritual, as
he has in mercy from the natural evil. A
fresh breeze sprung up towards evening, B6r 18241824. 565
and we were soon borne beyond the reach
of the current; and in a few hours Staten
land receded entirely from our view. But
fresh dangers and anxieties awaited us.

1823-02-09Feb. 9th.—Here begins our tossing and
rolling.—To-day we have had rain and
hail in squalls. We cannot write or read
with comfort; and if we attempt to eat,
sitting on chairs that are not lashed, the
chance is ten to one that we are thrown
across the cabin, before the meal is over.
I have had several pretty hard blows on
my head, since we left the river Plate.
Our latitude, as far as we can judge from
reckoning and observation, is 55° 26’—
lon. 35°. Twenty-one days ensue after
this, in which there was snow, hail, rain,
and one continued gale. Sometimes we
could scud before the wind; but the most
of the time it was too strong to admit of
that; we generally lay too under a close
reefed top-sail, and mizen-stay-sail. Oh!
how cheerless every thing looked around
us, in comparison with what it did some
time ago. The sailors were all wet, day
and night; the forecastle was half of the
time under water; and the water that
was shipped at the bow, ran as far as the
companion-way. All over the ship there
was nothing but dirt and wet, so slippery
that we could not stand. One night, at
twelve o’clock, I went on deck, when the
ship was laying too, under nothing but a
close reefed top-sail. The wind was so
strong, that I could not stand without
holding by my hands to something fixed:
it seemed as if the ship was going on her
beam ends every moment. The sailors
were always pleased to see me on deck
in a storm, and tried more than once to
frighten me; but when they found that
they did not succeed, they ended with
saying, “well Betsey, you’ll know how to
pity poor sailors—we have not been dry
since we left Staten land.” My heart has
often bled for these poor fellows. I slept
whenever I could, night or day. Studying
was out of the question; I found it
impossible to put two ideas together, half
the time. During this period, we caught
several birds; one or two of which I tried
to save for Mr. ―, but the rain continued
so long that they were spoiled.
The sailors call them “Mother Carey’s
chickens”, and “Mock Mollys”. The most
beautiful that I have seen is the Mock
Molly. Of this species we took a number.
They are a little larger than a
goose. In viewing Cape Horn, I can
truly say “the half was not told me.” It is
indeed one of the most dreadful places
ever seen; and if I double it again, I shall
endeavour to do it by the way of the Cape
of Good Hope; this, I know, is a blunder,
but it conveys my meaning. In a gale we
lost the waste-board of the ship; this left

the deck three feet nearer to the water,
and consequently we shipped more water
than usual. I had always had the good
fortune to be below when the deck got
washed very badly; and as we were soon
to be in the milder waters of the Pacifick,
I wished very much to see our vessel “ship
one heavy sea”, as the sailors call it. My
wishes were answered in the following
manner—One afternoon, when I had been
suffering for some time with wet feet, I
went to the caboose to warm them; just
as I was coming out, I got both my eyes
filled with ashes and embers, which put
me in a very unfavourable situation for
seeing what I had wished to see: but at
that moment I heard a sea strike the leeward
side of the ship, fore and aft; in an
instant I sprang to the shrouds, and heard
the water run in a torrent under me.
My poor eyes were condemned to darkness:
a liquid made of salt water and
ashes did not improve them just then.
However I felt no inconvenience from it
afterwards, except that it afforded fine
sport, for some time, to the captain, who
often observed that Betsey had shipped
a sea in her face. This occurrence however
did not intimidate me: I went on deck
very often to view the grandeur of the
sea; and it is truly one of the most sublime
objects in creation. I have spent
hours since I left my native land in viewing
this object. At times I have seen the
waves rise mountains high before us; and
it would appear as if we must inevitably
be swallowed up; but in a moment our
ship would rise upon the wave, and it
would be seen receding at the stern. I
stayed on deck one evening until 12
o’clock, looking at the waves breaking
over the ship: it was one of the most beautiful
sights I ever beheld. The water
would foam up like mountains of snow
around us, and break over the deck;
while below it sounded like thunder, or
like rivers running over us. I could compare
our sailing when going before the
wind to nothing but flying. We were
scudding with the wind directly aft, under
a close reefed top and main-sail; of course
the ship rolled and pitched at the same
time. Captain Clasby had told us, more
than once, that if the wind was fair, we
must take care of ourselves, for he did not
intend to spare us. He was now literally
fulfilling his words; for he neither spared
us nor the ship. I felt more afraid that
her sides would meet the same fate that
the waste-board did, than of any thing
else. She laboured very hard, and we
shipped so much water, that the pumps
were kept at work every four hours. I
have thought at times, in the night, that
we were on a rock; but on inquiry, the
answer would be, “nothing but Cape Horn.” B6v 566 Dec.
However, we are almost done with it, and
I am not sorry: nor am I sorry that I have
been called to double it; for I have enjoyed
more of the light of my heavenly
Father’s countenance, during the time
we were off the Cape, than I ever did in
the Atlantic. The only reason I can assign
is, that here we have been called
hourly to acknowledge his mercy in
sparing our lives; and that while we here
view his power upon this stormy ocean,
we have felt our helplessness, and been
made to adore and tremble. I am not
writing to one who is unacquainted with
the human heart; you know its dark deceitful
nature, and that it is not always
kept warm by tender treatment. For
me at least it is necessary, in order to
keep me in my place, to have some
doubts, some temptations, and some sickness
to struggle with; and even then my
garments are far from being kept white.
But hitherto has the Lord helped me,
and I can raise upon this much dreaded
landmark, a strong and lasting Ebenezer.
Long, I hope, shall I remember the mercy
of my God here. Here too the Spirit of
the Lord has, I trust, been striving with
some of the sailors, though many are yet,
I fear, in the gall of bitterness; some,
however, are rejoicing in the Lord. How
would your heart rejoice with us, could
you see these hardy sons of the ocean,
who would scoren to complain of any
earthly hardships, bowing with the spirit
of children, at the cross of Christ. This
fact we witness; and if I could do it as
I wish, it would please me to give you an
account of some of their conversations—
their plain, abrupt, and sailor-like manner
of expressing their thoughts and feelings;
but I must leave this for an abler pen.

On the 1823-02-1616th of February, we saw Cape
Noir, and were obliged to tack, to prevent
being driven on it. The wind was
against us; and the 1823-03-033d of March we were
again near the same place, only a little to
the west. On the Sabbath, Mr. Richards
preached in the cabin, from these words:
“‘Though you make many prayers I will
not hear’”—warning those that refused to
hear the calls of God, of that day when
God would refuse to hear them. Oh!
how appalling is the thought, that the day
is coming, in which we must rise as witnesses
against them, or they against us—
if we have been unfaithful to them. We
still retire for fifteen minutes, ever evening,

directly after publick prayers, to
pray for them—I say “retire”, that is, we go
to different parts of the ship; some of us
into the rigging, some out in the boats,
and others on the spars; yet in all these
places we can find our God.

We are now to bid farewell to high
wind and dark blue water. I hope soon
to be in that part of the Pacific, which
deserves the name; for in this part “Terrific”
would suit it best. Indeed it is so terrible,
that neither sun, moon, nor stars,
condescend to visit it often. Its constant
companions are rain, hail and snow.

1823-03-04March 4th.—We have completely doubled
Cape Horn; the sea is much smoother
—I saw nothing remarkable during the
day. My own health and that of the family
is pretty good; it is a source of comfort
to me that Mrs. and Mr. S. enjoy E3r 18251825. 37
their health so well: I have learned to
love them, and they richly deserve it.
My heart must be dead to every virtue,
when it ceases to beat with gratitude to
them. When I took the last look of those
dear young gentlemen, with whom I had
spent my days of childhood and folly, and
my more sober years of reflection, my
soul sickened within me as I said—“Can
I hope ever to find friends like these?
Can I ever find those who will take so
deep an interest in my welfare, and with
whom I shall spend such happy hours?”
Yes, I have found such friends. When
you think of me as a “stranger in a strange
land”, think of me still as one who has
kind friends, to guide and protect her.
’Tis true the endearments of home cannot
be forgotten. My mind often returns
to your family altar. There I have often
left my burden, and I cannot forget that
consecrated spot. Nor can I forget the
dear little boys, I have so often held in
my arms—I comfort myself by thinking
that I shall hear from you all while in life,
and with the hope that I shall meet you
after the hour of death.

1823-03-055th.—The weather much pleasanter
than it has been. We are getting into
the Pacific. Lat. 46° 11’, long. 82° 30’ W.

1823-03-077th.—The weather not very pleasant,
but much better than Cape Horn.

1823-03-099th.—Sabbath. In the morning we had
prayers in the cabin, and in the afternoon
Mr. Stewart preached from Genesis vi. 3.
“‘My spirit shall not always strive with
man.’” I have seen nothing since I came
on board that has appeared to produce
so much effect. The Spirit of the Lord
seemed striving with at least some of the
sailors. They have always been constrained since
to say, “what shall we do?” and I hope some
have fled to the only sure resting place
for poor perishing souls. Lat. 46° 22’,
lon. 80° 35’.

1823-03-1010th.—Pleasant weather—all going on
well. We are steering up the coast of
Chili. It is remarkable that off this coast
it never rains; nor is it clear weather; it
is always a little cloudy. The air is very
refreshing at all times, but particularly so
in the morning and evening. Our deck
presents a very odd appearance this
morning. The fore-hole, the middle-hole,
and the run are all open. The things
that have been wet are airing in every
direction; our medicine chests are unpacking,
and the sailors are sending up
the fore and mizen, royal and top-gallant
yards. Picture to yourself our situation,
when in the midst of all this, we heard
the well known cry—“There she blows;”
this was repeated every minute or two
for some time. The lines and water
were hurried into the boats, and every
thing was soon in readiness. The sailors

waited impatiently for the command to
lower. Those in sight were sperm
whales, at four miles distance. The wished
for orders were at length given, and
in five minutes the boats were seen
gliding over the waves. How changed
the scene; thought I—Four months ago,
these boats would not have been lowered
without having our ears assailed with
oaths—Now not a profane word is heard.
They pursued the whales some distance,
but could not come up with them. The
captain seeing this, hoisted the signal for
return; the poor fellows were obliged to
obey, and thus ended the chase—and my
day must end with it. The lat. 39° 16’,
lon. 80° 40’.

1823-03-1313th.—Steering N. by W. Nothing occurred
until 1 P.M. when we came up
with and spoke the English brig Tiber,
from Valparaiso, bound to Valdivia. This
was by far the handsomest foreign vessel
we had seen, since we left America. The
captain was very much of a gentleman.
The conversation, as near as I can recollect
it, was as follows:—Englishman—
“What ship is that?” American—“The
Thames, of New Haven.” E.Englishman—“How long
have you been out?” A.American—“One hundred
and ten days.” E.Englishman—“Are you bound to
Valparaiso?” A.American—“No sir; I am bound to
the Sandwich Islands. How long have you
been our, and where are you bound?”
E.Englishman—“I have been out eight days; I’m
bound to Valdivia. Valparaiso is in a
state of revolution. The Royalists have
been defeated. The Franklin 74 is there.
What success have you had in fishing?”
A.American—“I have caught nothing.” E.Englishman—“I am
sorry for that. I wish you success. Sir,
what is your longitude?” A.American—“81° 40’.
What is yours, sir?” E.Englishman—“80° 10’.” A.American—“I
thank you, sir. I wish you a prosperous
voyage.” All this passed in three or four
minutes.

1823-03-2020th.— There is a sameness in every
thing that passes, which makes it almost
impossible to write; unless I should give
you a very minute account of every little
incident that has occurred. This I will
not attempt, for fear I should aim at something
out of my reach. Mr. Stewart will
give you a full account of every thing
that you would wish to know. We are
sailing slowly along the coast of Peru.
That lat is. 20° 38’, lon. 91° 52’.

1823-03-2424th.—The morning was pleasant, but
I could not enjoy it—I was wretched—I
could not enjoy my friends, because I
could not enjoy my God. The captain
wishes to make a respectable appearance
when he enters the port, and so he is
painting the ship all over. Our lat. 15°
29’, lon. 96° 47’ W.

1823-03-2525th.—Still dark in mind myself, but
the family all in motion.—Some packing E3v 38 Jan.
clothes, some writing journals.—I just began
to transcribe mine for you. You
would scarcely believe that so many different
occupations could be carried on,
on board a ship.—The painters, the carpenters,
and the blacksmiths are all at
work. This morning Stephen and Cooperree
caught a Skip Jack, as they call it;
I believe the proper name is Bonetta. Its
flesh has a very pleasant taste, and the
fish, altogether, resembles a mackerel
very much, only it is round; and when
taken out of the water has some of the
hues of the Dolphin.

26th.—Nothing worth noticing occurred
during the day. Painting, and tarring,
and writing, were carried on, as they had
been for some time past. Towards evening,
the dark cloud was removed from
my mind, and I felt as peaceful as the
ocean with which I was surrounded.
There not a wave was seen rising abruptly,
from any part of our ship; all rolled
smoothly and gently along. The succeeding
night was beautiful beyond description;
and all was peace within. I
thought of St. John’s “sea of glass mingled
with fire,” when I beheld the ocean.
Our tarring and painting had been completed;
our studding-sails were spread;
the full moon shone brightly on us, without
one intervening cloud, while our vessel
was wafted gently on the surface of
the deep. It will be long before the impression
of this evening will be erased
from my mind.

29th.—I still enjoy peace and comfort.
The day has been much warmer than
usual. I think I have not suffered more
with the heat since I left America. The
appearance of the crew has not been so
favourable to-day as it was last Saturday.
“The strong man armed is keeping his
palace,” but blessed be God there is a
stronger than he. Oh! that it would
please him to come down and show his
power amongst us.

30th.—Sabbath. The first thing I heard
in the morning, was that whales were
seen spouting, off the stern. The captain
ordered the course altered, and for
two hours all was confusion and noise.
Alas! how unlike those Sabbath mornings
I have spent beneath your roof,
where all was quietness and peace. No
spouting whales, no playing dolphins, no
rattling ropes, nor hoarse commanding
voices, were there heard.—Nothing there
prevented our meditations, till the well
known bell told us it was time to offer
the morning sacrifice. But I am indulging
myself too much in such recollections.
I would not, I could not, I dare
not, look with longing eyes towards my
native land. No sir, my hand lies on the
plough, and if my poor wretched heart

does not deceive me, I would not take it
off for all the wealth of America. It is
not the “leeks and the onions” of your
land that I long after, but for one such
sermon as I have heard from Dr. A. It
is spiritual food I want. Excuse me, sir,
when you remember that I have been
spoiled at home. After two hours detention,
we changed our course, and again
pursued our way. At 10 we had our
prayer meeting in the cabin; and in the
afternoon Mr. Goodrich preached from
Gen. xix. 17.—“Escape for your lives.”
There was not many of the sailors present.
Satan is very much out of humour;
he is either losing, or securing, some of
his people on board.

1823-03-3131st.—The morning pleasant—the weather
quite warm. Such sudden transitions
from heat to cold, and cold to heat,
have a very unfavourable effect on my
health. They make me weak and dejected.

April 1st, 1823.—All fools day; but we
I hope have laid aside our folly. The
weather so warm that the tar is dropping
from the rigging, and the water from my
face; the ship almost in a calm, and we
under a vertical sun—I am ready to think
“I have seen some new things under the
sun, if nobody else has.” Lat. 3° 25’, lon.
108° 30’.

1823-04-022d.—The weather very warm, and
scarcely any air stirring. About 11
o’clock we had a shower, which is the
first we have had since we left Cape Horn.
In the afternoon our captain indulged us
with a view of the ship. He had promised
me a ride, (if you please to call it
such) in one of his little boats, the first
calm day; so I reminded him of it to-day,
and he ordered a boat lowered, and he,
with four or five of the mission family and
myself, went out in it. The women get
into the boat before it is let down into
the water. This requires some fortitude
—for the moment the boat touches the
water, it is thrown up two or three yards
by the swell, and it requires great dexterity
to manage it so as to avoid the
danger of being stove against the ship,
while the men are getting in at the chains.
I enjoyed the excursion very much. We
went round the ship twice; which having
been painted lately makes a very beautiful
appearance. Her brow, catheads, and
stern, have images on them, and all looked
clean and cheerful. On the flying
jib-boom sat Stephen, the Tahitean
youth; and on the bowsprit Cooperee,
who is a diverting fellow, and in his
quizzing way, hailed the captain as he
passed. The quarter deck was filled
with our family, whose eyes followed us
as we passed bounding over the waves.
When we returned to the ship I felt E4r 18251825. 39
quite elated: it was the first time I had
been abroad since we left New Haven,
which is 132 days—a great while for me
to stay at home, at one time.

1823-04-044th.—Nothing but pleasant weather
followed, until we came in sight of Owhyhee
(Hawaii). We then had frequent
squalls of rain, and hard blows; but not
so as to make it uncomfortable. On the
1823-04-1111th Mrs. Stewart presented us with a
fine boy, which I consider as my
charge. The little fellow beguiles many
of my lonely hours; and you must excuse
me if my journal is now weekly instead
of daily. From the first moment that I
saw the little innocent, I felt emotions
that I was unacquainted with before.
This, no doubt, arose from the peculiar
situation in which I was placed, and from
my attachment to his parents. It was
one in the morning when I saw Mr. Stewart
up in the cabin. Sleep forsook my
eyes, and with a heavy heart I asked—
what is the matter? The answer was just
what I had been fearing—that Mrs. Stewart
was unwell. I had hoped and prayed
that the winds might waft us to our destined
port, before her day of affliction
should arrive. Although I knew that the
sea would give up its dead at the command
of God, yet the thought of entombing
one that I loved so tenderly beneath
its billows, was to me more than I knew
how to bear. I was soon, however, delivered
from all my fears. Her hours of
suffering were not many. At half past
nine, we had our little stranger in our
arms, and his mother in a comfortable
situation. The wind blew so hard all the
time, that it was impossible to set down
a cup, or any thing else with safety. Her
bed was at the windward side of the ship,
and it required some exertion to keep
her in it. Yet she felt no inconvenience
from the circumstance, and suffered as
little as if she had been provided with
every convenience. Mr. Stewart and myself
were her nurses. One of us sat up
the fore part of the night, and the other
the latter, for two weeks. The little boy
had good health, and we got along very
well. Most of my time was spent below,
and I heard nothing that was passing on
deck. I was happy to have it in my
power to be of some assistance to my
best friends. I found employment enough
to engross all my attention, and nothing
occurred worth mentioning. On the 1823-04-2424th,
we saw and made Hawaii (Owhyhee).
At the first sight of the snow-capped
mountains, I felt a strange sensation of
joy and grief. It soon wore away, and
as we sailed slowly past its windward
side, we had a full view of all its grandeur.
The tops of the mountains are
hidden in the clouds, and covered with

perpetual snow. We could see with a
glass the white banks, which brought the
strong wintry blasts of our native country
to our minds so forcibly, as almost to
make me shiver. But it was not long before
objects that were calculated to have
a chilling effect of another kind, were
brought to our sight. Two or three canoes,
loaded with natives, came to the
ship: their appearance was that of half
man and half beast—naked—except a
narrow strip of tapa round their loins.
When they first came on board, the sight
chilled our very hearts. The ladies retired
to the cabin, and burst into tears;
and some of the gentlemen turned pale;
my own soul sickened within me, and
every nerve trembled. Are these, thought
I, the beings with whom I must spend the
remainder of my life! They are men and
have souls—was the reply which conscience
made. We asked them where
the king was—at Hawaii, or Oahu? They
said at Oahu. We informed them that
we were missionaries, come to live with
them, and do them good. At which an
old man exclaimed, in his native dialect,
what may be thus translated—“That is
very good, by and by, know God.” This
beginning of missionary labours seemed
very encouraging; and in a short time
our unpleasant feelings were much dissipated,
and we conversed with them
freely, through the boys, who were our
interpreters. We gave them old clothes;
and in return they gave us all the fish
they had caught, except one large one,
which we bought. They remained with
us until our boat went on shore, and
brought us some potatoes, taro, and
cocoanuts, which were very refreshing to
us after a voyage of five months; part of
which time we had no other diet than
meat and bread. I brought my little boy
on deck, who was two weeks old; some
of them took him in their arms, and in
ecstasy exclaimed, “aroha maitai”—very
great love to you; and kissed him. The
last expression of affection we could have
dispensed with very well; but we have
to become all things to all men, that we
may gain some. They then bid us many
arohas, and took their departure.

On Saturday, the 1823-05-1010th of May, we left
the ship, and went to the mission enclosure
at Honoruru. We had assigned to
us a little thatched house in one corner
of the yard, consisting of one small room,
with a door, and two windows—the door
too small to admit a person walking in
without stooping, and the windows only
large enough for one person to look out
at a time. Near us was another of the
same kind, occupied by Mr. R., and opposite
one much larger, where Mr. B.
and E. resided. Next to them stood another E4v 40 Jan.
small one, in which Mr. Ellis, of the
London Mission Society resided; and in
the mission house (which at home would
be called small) there were Messrs. Bingham,
Thurston, Loomis, Harwood, Goodrich,
Blatchley and Chamberlain. The
family all eat at the same table, and the
ladies attend to the work by turns. Mrs.
Stewart and myself took each of us a day
separately. I found my time fully occupied
during stay at Oahu, which I was
not sorry for. Had I been idle, I should
not in all probability have been so happy
in my situation as I was. I was obliged to
stay within the enclosure all the time, except
on the Sabbath, when I went to
church, which was a few rods off: and
in the morning early I went three or four
times, with Mr. Stewart, to Mr. Allen’s,
about one mile and a half from home, for
milk. Mr. Allen was very kind to me,
and seemed happy to see one of his own
country people. I think he told me he
had resided on the island twenty years,
and had never before seen a coloured female.
His wife is a native woman, but very
pleasant, and to all appearance innocent.
The first time I visited her she presented
me with a very handsome mat, and appeared
happy to see me. They are in good
circumstances, and friendly to the mission.
I regretted leaving them very much.

On the 1823-05-2626th of May we heard that the
barge was about to sail for Lahaina, with
the old queen and princes; and that the
queen was desirous to have missionaries
to accompany her; and that if missionaries
would consent to go, the barge should
wait two days for them. A meeting was
called to consult whether it was expedient
to establish a mission at Lahaina.
The mission was determined on, and Mr.
S. was appointed to go: he chose Mr. R.
for his companion, who was also appointed
the next day. On the 1823-05-2828th we embarked
on the mighty ocean again, which we had
left so lately.

In the morning of the 1823-05-3131st, we all came
on deck, and were in sight of land. In the
middle of the day we came to anchor; the
gentlemen left the vessel to see if they
could obtain a house, or any accommodations
for us. They returned in a few hours
with Mr. Butler, an American resident,
who had kindly offered us a house. In
the afternoon our things were landed, and
we took up our residence in Lahaina. We
had not seen a tree that looked green and
beautiful since we left home, until we
came here. The water, too, is very good,
and the house one of the best that I have
seen on the island.—It is the same that
Dr. Holman had while he was in this country.
Mr. B. was very kind to us, and did
every thing in his power to make us comfortable.
His wife is a half-breed, and one

of the prettiest women I have seen on the
island. She understands English, but will
not speak it. The next day, being the
Sabbath, the gentlemen went down to the
village in the morning, and preached by
an interpreter. The people were very
attentive, and requested that their instruction
might begin the next day; and accordingly
the following day it did begin.

Mr. Pitt dined with us the 1823-06-022d of the
month.—After dinner he said to the missionaries
very politely, “I wish you much
joy on the island of Mowee.” He is a
pleasant and sensible man, and the most
influential of any on the islands: he favours
the mission. The next morning
Mr. Loomis and Mr. Butler accompanied
him to Oahu, and left us with the natives
and Mrs. Butler: William staid with the
old Queen, so that we were quite alone.

Near the last of June I had another attack
of the pain in my breast, with a little
spitting of blood. At the time I was
seized, we were without a lancet, or any
means of obtaining one, except from a
ship that had just come into the harbour.
Mr. P. sent to it and got one, and Mr. R.
bled me. In a few minutes I was relieved,
but was not able to leave the place until
the 1823-06-2424th, when a brig came in sight.—
Supposing it to have the deputation on
board, I walked to the beach, and arrived
just in time to see his royal highness
land, amidst hundreds. He appeared
very well at the time, but we found soon
after that he was in a frolic, and had left
Oahu without its being known where he
was going. The day previous to his arrival
a schooner came in quest of him;
and the day after, his own barge came,
with two of his queens—he has four. In
his manners he is quite a gentleman. He
reads and writes well. We regret very
much that he is given to drink. He says
he is afraid of the fire, and has made several
attempts to refrain, but has been unsuccessful.
The 1823-06-2929th was the Sabbath.
I went in the morning with the family to
worship: the scene that presented itself
was one that would have done an American’s
heart good to have witnessed. Our
place of worship was nothing but an open
place on the beach, with a large tree to
shelter us: on the ground a large mat
was laid, on which the chief persons sat.
To the right there was a sofa, and a number
of chairs; on these the missionaries,
the king, and principal persons sat. The
kanakas, or lower class of people, sat on
the ground in rows; leaving a passage
open to the sea, from which the breeze
was blowing. Mr. R. addressed them from
these words, “‘It is appointed unto all
men once to die, and after death the judgment.’”
Honoru acted as interpreter: the
audience all appeared very solemn. After E5r 18251825. 41
service the favourite queen called me, and
requested that I should take a seat with
her on the sofa, which I did, although I
could say but few words which she could
understand. Soon after, bidding them
“aroha”, I returned with the family. In the
afternoon we had an English sermon at
our house: about fifty were present, and
behaved well. In the morning one of the
king’s boys came to the house, desiring to
be instructed in English. Mr. S. thought it
would be well for me to engage in the
work at once. Accordingly I collected a
proper number and commenced. I had
four English, and six Hawaiian scholars.
This, with the care of the family, I find as
much as I can manage.

1823-07-03July 3d.— In the afternoon I went, with
a number of the natives, to purchase pine
apples. After walking through Taro
patches and water, we came to the pine
apples, which appeared very handsome.
They grow on the edge of a pond of water;
the fruit generally hangs in the water—
one or two on a bunch—sometimes only
one—which grows straight up on the
bush. I obtained two apples, and seven
plants, and returned home before night.

1823-07-044th.— In the morning, Mr. S. returned
from prayers, with Mr. Ellis, the London
missionary, who had just arrived from
Oahu, on his way to Hawaii. I was very
much disappointed to see him without
receiving letters from America. When
we left HonoruHonoruru, two vessels were expected;
one from New York, and the other
from Boston. I often visited the beach to
watch for sails: the vessel at last arrived,
but brought me no letters. Oh may I be
taught, to be submissive at all times.